North Carolina has over 300 miles of beach to choose from, but my favorite is the Outer Banks, which extend from the Virginia border to Cape Lookout. This is the most impressive chain of barrier islands in the world, with Cape Hatteras bulging far offshore of the mainland coast. Pamlico Sound is quite shallow but so wide that you cannot see land when making a passage through these tranquil bay waters (you can only see low-lying land within 20 miles because of the curvature of the Earth).

The barrier islands that constitute the outer coast of North Carolina are long and slender and are cut by only a few inlets until you reach the Cape Fear region to the south. Oregon Inlet is the only break in the continuous barrier beach for over 100 miles on the northern Outer Banks; this inlet was blown open by a storm in the late 1800s and named for the first ship that sailed through this new waterway. Both hurricanes and winter northeasters buffet these shores so that nearly every year there is some reported storm damage. Historically, inlets have sliced through these thin islands, and overwash surges regularly overtop the island and flood the roads in some erosion hot spots, such as the Buxton motel area, just north of the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse. I can still remember Charles Fraser, the visionary developer of Hilton Head Island, S.C., telling me that he never thought that these islands would be developed beyond the fishing villages and beach shack-type construction. But there is only so much coast (and this is a beautiful one). Newcomers are either unaware or unperturbed by the probability of storm deva-station of their beachfront house along the Carolina coast.

The Outer Banks are not only known for hurricanes and shipwrecks (Diamond Shoals off of Cape Hatteras is known as the "graveyard of the Atlantic", but also for piracy (Blackbeard terrorized these shores), fishing (surfcasting is unequaled), and the best board surfing on the East Coast, especially at Cape Hatteras. Swimming in the warm Carolina waters is also a favorite beach activity as is kite flying because of the nearly constant winds (which also help to minimize flying bugs). History has been made here several times, including the settlement of the first English colony in the New World on Roanoke Island (the famed "Lost Colony" and the first airplane flight by the Wright brothers (North Carolina's license plate reads "First in Flight"). It is certainly one of the places that any beach (or history lover for that matter) will have to explore, and many people find them-selves returning year after year to these wind-swept shores.

The Carolina coast is family oriented, and the best way to enjoy it is to rent one of the many seaside cottages or share a bigger house with friends and family. The emphasis is on family beach activities and backyard barbecues. Incidentally, North Carolina barbecue is the best in the country, and I am not biased even though I was raised in this state. Ice tea is served by the pitcher (and it is state law that seconds are always free). Fried seafood is the order of the day, but you can have it broiled at most restaurants if you insist.

The main concern for swimmers, especially along the high energy Outer Banks, is rip currents. These seaward flowing currents can exist during all wave conditions, but they become much more intense and dangerous with high surf, especially when the onshore breaking waves reach four to five feet in height. Big waves that make for good surfing are not the best for swimming and can also result in strong rip currents emanating from the beachface. These nearshore currents, sometimes incorrectly called rip tides or undertow, are the leading cause of death by drowning (see Beach Safety). An unusually active year was 1995, which was marked by the passage of many hurricanes that churned up the Atlantic Ocean. The waves were oftentimes too large with rip currents to permit safe swimming. The Outer Banks have been the scene of far too many saves by alert lifeguards - and also some losses - so that vacationers must be aware of this hazard and choose another activity on big wave days.

Duck and the other small family resorts to the north have only been around for a decade or so. At one time the mention of the word "Duck" as a vacation destination was received by a smirk; today it is one of the hottest destinations for Washingtonians who enjoy this upscale development without the rushed, frenzied pace of closer resorts, like Virginia Beach or Ocean City, Maryland. Rentals are plentiful and among the most luxurious on the North Carolina coast. The beach at Duck and Corolla varies in color, from light tan-colored sand to almost red pea-sized gravel, and can be steeply sloping due to the coarseness of the material. These qualities make for difficult walking, just like on Outer Cape Cod, except at the water's edge where the beach is flatter and water saturated. Do not attempt to drive the family car onto the beach; even four-wheel drive vehicles often get stuck in the "treacherous red sand." I have had a few experiences trying to dig out a jeep sunk down to the running boards, and believe me, it is no fun.

The name "Nags Head" comes from a practice during buccaneering times of walking a "nag" or mule up and down the beach on dark nights with a lantern tied to the animal's neck. From a ship offshore, the light would appear to be a lighthouse and its movement would give the sailors incorrect information on their sailing speed so that they might turn ashore too soon and run aground on the sand shoals. While Nags Head got the name and the rap for this scandalous enterprise, similar activities were practiced along other shores; there are many stories of "mooncursers" on Cape Cod who made a living off of scavenging shipwrecks and salvaging what washed up on the beach.

Nags Head has been a beach resort since the mid-19th century, drawing people from the mainland during the sultry summers trying to "get a little air." I can remember how it looked in the 1960s - a community of nothing more than wooden beach houses, covered with weather-beaten, whitish-grey colored cedar shingles. Dunes topped with sea oats dominated the landscape as trees only appear on the wider areas of the barrier island, such as Southern Shores to the north. Just the raw beauty of the area was so appealing. Today, the roads have been widened and straightened, and shopping centers have been built hodgepodge. The Outer Bankers are fiercely independent-minded people who are not given to "socialized" planning, but unfortunately much of the powerful charm of the area has been compromised over the last few decades.

Despite the development, there is much to see and do in the Nags Head area. Jockey's Ridge is a scenic wonder with dunes towering up to 125 feet high; these are the largest sand dunes on the Atlantic coast, even exceeding the massive, barren sand dunes of Provincetown on the windy tip of Cape Cod. Jockey's Ridge State Park is the hang-gliding capital of the East Coast and draws international attention. It is a great place to learn the sport (without having to sail off the top of a mountain and watch the ground instantly drop away from you). My kids were enthralled by a sand pile this big and high, but walking to the top is a tortuous journey in the hot summer sun; wear your hat and bring some water.

With the steady wind, Jockey's Ridge, in specific, and the Outer Banks area, in general, are superb areas for kite flying. The Wright brothers chose nearby Kitty Hawk to make the first self-propelled, heavier-than-air flight in 1903. History that changed the world was made on the desolate Banks, and the telegraph at the Black Pelican Restaurant in Nags Head was used to send out the word. This is my favorite beach bar/restaurant on the Carolina coast; it has been moved once from the ever-eroding beach, and its view of the sea is again becoming too good for comfort.

Cape Hatteras was the first National Seashore. This shoreline is completely untouched except for eight villages (locally called hamlets) built at the wider areas along this narrow barrier island. These historic fishing villages, such as Avon and Buxton, were originally built on the bayshore, away from the raging surf during hurricanes and northeasters. But in recent times the development has occurred ever closer to the beach. The National Park Service controls the beaches and dunes, so there is a 72-mile corridor of unbroken seashore to enjoy. This is a nature lover's coast; a place to have a beach to yourself and wander along the shore for miles without seeing a soul. Beachcombing is best after storms, when the ocean throws up part of its bounty upon the shore. There is scant little shade for beachgoers, so bring your umbrella in the summertime. Many people prefer the bumper seasons of fall or spring, when the prices are lower (by as much as 50 percent on house rentals) and the fish are running. March to May is a fine time to come, but late winter northeasters can sometimes kick up (actually quite an experience in its own right); September to October is my favorite time to visit because the water is still warm and swimmable, barring an approaching hurricane.

Cape Hatteras Lighthouse is the most famous lighthouse in the United States; it is spectacularly painted in a swirling pattern, like a black and white barber pole. For many years the lighthouse was closed to visitors because of the ever-threatening sea and beach erosion problems, but now it has been reopened to the public. The view you earn after climbing the 268 spiraling steps to the top is well worth the effort. This vantage point offers a great vista of the cape, where the land makes a 90 degree turn.

Capes are very special sites. I love to walk out on Cape Point at low tide when the sand spit is long and skinny and sometimes hooks into the water like a dog's tail. Waves are breaking on both sides of this sand spit/bar because of refraction on the offshore (Diamond) shoals; this causes the waves to bend and change direction to the extent that the same waves are coming from diametrically opposite directions (approaching you from both the north and south as you walk out onto this tenuous landform). I feel a little like Moses when God parted the Red Sea as I walk out on this skinny sliver of sand barely protruding above the choppy water's surface. People love to fish at the Point because the large breaking waves and confused seas stir up the bottom sediments, putting food into the water column for fish. Once I walked out almost a thousand feet on this sand spit, but I had to swim back in some lower sections when the tide came in. I felt like I was in a giant washing machine with all the fury and suds produced by the breaking waves. I recommend that you watch the tides and head back sooner unless you are a strong swimmer.

This northern flank of Cape Hatteras has the highest wave energy and hence is the top surfing spot on the East Coast. Experienced board surfers on big wave days use the rip currents generated off the groins fronting the lighthouse for a free ride offshore, and then ride the curling ground swell onshore until these plunging waves break with explosive action. Plunging waves result when waves move close to shore without losing much energy (because of the relatively deep water), and suddenly steepen up and curl over to break as they encounter a nearshore sand bar. Spilling waves, which break over a long distance as the bottom becomes gradually shallower, are dominant along the East Coast and are much safer for beginning surfers. Of course, experienced board surfers will say that such waves are not worth the time. Good surfing beaches can make for dangerous swimming conditions, and it is advised that children and swimmers take advantage of the southward-facing beaches at Cape Hatteras that usually have much calmer surf.

Surfing is not the only action at Cape Hatteras; these shores are also known as one of the best surf-casting beaches in the nation. This is as good as it gets during the fall (from roughly Labor Day through November) when bluefish, sea trout, red drum, and mackerel frequent these nearshore waters. Cape Point is one of the best areas, and the National Park Service allows avid fishermen to bring their off-road vehicles out on the beach in order to haul back the big catches.

Cape Hatteras is located closer to the Gulf Stream than anywhere north of south Florida, so this is a top area for charter-boat fishing after big game fish like marlin. Cape Hatteras is a dividing area for the North and South Atlantic Ocean in terms of coastal currents, water temp-erature, and offshore fisheries. Therefore, wildlife abounds with both cold and warm water species of fish and seabirds. Beaches to the south experience less heavy surf, and the sand becomes generally finer and the beaches flatter toward the South Carolina coast.

Ocracoke Island is still part of the Outer Banks, and big surf and coarse-grained beaches are the rule here. This island can be reached by a free state ferry from Hatteras. I enjoy tossing crackers up into the air off the back of the ferry boat and watching the trailing sea gulls put on their acrobatic show. Ocracoke is a special place; it is my favorite getaway beach. Here you will find some of the finest, wild beaches in the country, and the water quality is at the top of the charts as there is literally nothing way out there to pollute it. Don't come here expecting to play golf or planning to stay at a resort destination hotel; there is no Ritz on the beach or fast food joints for that matter. The main pursuits are swimming (best at Airport Beach area), shelling (especially on the north end), and general beachcombing along the 16-mile long shore. It's also fun to ride bicycles through the historic village of Ocracoke, located on the south end of the island.

The locals, who number only in the hundreds and descended mostly from the original 18th-century settlers, will tell you stories of Ocracoke Island's most infamous resident, Edward Teach, better known as Blackbeard the pirate. The rascal stole a young girl to become his 14th wife, but he later met his fate in these waters when he was shot to death by British sailors and beheaded. So much for the heady days of pillaging and raping; today's Ocracoke Island could not get more quiet or peaceful.

Cape Lookout is the second cape of the three that make up the distinctive shape of the Outer Banks of North Carolina. The beaches of Portsmouth Island, Core Banks and Shackleford Banks are difficult to reach (no bridges) and challenging to explore (no facilities); you have to bring anything you want to eat or drink. Portsmouth Island is in the process of being restored by the National Park Service and is worth a visit by those interested in early shore settlements. Core Banks is a fairly flat, long and skinny barrier island that regularly experiences overwash during coastal storms. Shackleford Banks is the most interesting to explore, with its large dunes created by the prevailing onshore winds, which themselves provide protection from salt spray and saltwater storm flooding to safeguard a maritime forest. Wild horses still roam the island; once there were sheep, pigs, and cows left behind by the Diamond City residents who were forced to flee the island after a 1900 hurricane devastated their small community on the east end of Shackleford. This is a great island to explore during a boating day trip from nearby Beaufort and Morehead City, but bring the insect repellent and watch out for ticks in the forest. One of my favorite trees in the maritime forest is the "toothache tree," so named by the Native Americans since you can chew the leaves and it will quickly numb your mouth.

The historic city of Beaufort has no beaches, but it is well worth the visit. I spent a number of summers in a Front Street house on the waterfront when I was teaching coastal ecology courses at the nearby Duke University Marine Laboratory. The North Carolina Maritime Museum on Front Street is one of the best in the country and free at that. My best dinners were had at Mrs. Willis' Restaurant in nearby Morehead City; the home-cooked southern meals were delicious and inexpensive. I always topped off a fine seafood or barbecue dinner with one of her fresh fruit pies.

Local promoters call Bogue Banks the "Crystal Coast," but the water at Atlantic Beach does not measure up to that found elsewhere. It turns out that the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers must regularly dredge Beaufort Inlet, which is the entranceway to the port of Morehead City. But there is nowhere to put the dredged spoil, so it is dumped on Atlantic Beach and called beach nourishment. While much of the material is sandy, there are mud lumps which turn into balls as they roll around in the surf zone, muddying the water. Another tip-off that this is a pumped-in beach is all the jagged, broken shells on the beach and the generally grey color as opposed to the light tan to white native beach sand.

Hammocks Beach State Park is the Best Walking Beach in the Southeast. Located on small, unspoiled Bear Island, it is only reached by private boat or pedestrian ferry from the mainland at Swansboro. I enjoy walking to the north end where you find high dunes migrating through a dense forest. We found a tough grape vine (make sure it is not poison oak) and swung out from the dune top and dropped to the soft sand below. I really enjoyed my swim in the warm water, but was surprised (shall we say terrified) by being hit hard on my leg while paddling around offshore. I thought for sure that my leg was completely cut off by a shark attack; I have heard stories that they can cleanly take one off and you don't even feel the pain for a while. As I cautiously felt down for my leg (which fortunately was there and unhurt), I rubbed the nose of a huge loggerhead sea turtle. This 500-pound behemoth was coming ashore to lay her eggs at the base of the sand dunes. Bear Island is one of the favorite nesting areas for the endangered sea turtles; the state park rangers showed me a nest of eggs, and then covered them with chicken wire to protect them from the pesky raccoons who love to gorge themselves on the turtle eggs.

If you want to see what a hurricane can do to the narrow barrier islands that line the outer coast of North Carolina, then stop in at Topsail Beach and Surf City. In 1996, Hurricane Fran leveled the north end of Topsail Beach; the overwash surges pushed beach and dune sand across the island into the bay. Many beachfront homes were destroyed by this barely category three hurricane, but the newer houses that were built stronger and elevated above the storm surge on pilings survived. There are no high rises here, mostly privately owned beach homes that are rented out by the week.

Cape Fear at the southern end of North Carolina's coast is the least known of the three capes, largely due to its isolation from major population areas. It was not until 1991 that the last leg of I-40 was completed to Wilmington, opening this area up to the metropolitan areas of the Research Triangle (Raleigh, Chapel Hill and Durham), Greensboro-Winston Salem area, and the queen city of Charlotte. As a kid growing up in Charlotte, we rarely visited the Wilmington area because of the long drive on secondary roads, but instead enjoyed the closer beaches at Myrtle Beach, South Carolina. The only exception was to visit the porting of the battleship U.S.S. North Carolina, one of the greatest naval ships of World War II. I had collected nickels as a school kid and made a donation myself in order to save this giant ship from the scrap yard.

The booming North Carolina economy is finally reaching this area, and the once decaying downtown area of Wilmington is being revitalized. This old port city is also trying to become the "Hollywood of the East," with the building of TV production studios, back lots, and sound stages over the past few decades. Andy Griffith is probably the most famous actor in residence, and many movies and some TV series (notably "Matlock") have been shot here.

Wrightsville Beach, locally known as Shell Island, is heavily developed, including a mix of mid- and high-rise condos, but it has a major beach erosion problem. Several attempts at beach nourishment have been less than successful with much of the pumped-in sand washing away within a few years. More problematic at the present time is the downdrift (southward) migration of Mason Inlet on the north end of the island, which is threatening a high-rise condo valued at over $25 million. The state of North Carolina has a strict policy of no hard stabilization (groins, jetties, seawalls, bulkheads and the like are not allowed on the beach). The builders and residents of this vulnerable condo at the water's edge knew of this law and signed off as knowledgeable of the erosion threat and still insisted on beachfront construction and living. Now, of course, they want the right to protect their property. This is a difficult case that will not be easily resolved. While not allowing for stabilization of the inlet directly, one plan calls for opening another inlet further to the north, which will hopefully cause the one threatening the development to close. But who will pay for this expensive operation even if it is permitted by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers?

Swimming at any of the inlets is forbidden, but some people choose to ignore the rules and risk drowning. At these narrow constrictions between the barrier islands, water must rush in and out with the flood and ebbing of the tide. The velocities can exceed several feet per second (much faster than an Olympic swimmer can sustain) at tidal inlets. These dangerous tidal jets are another reason for drowning, especially when the tide is dropping and the flow heads into the Atlantic Ocean. The best surfing is often near inlets due to wave break on the offshore (ebb) tidal delta (a large sand bar maintained by the tidal jet of water). The best surfing in the Wilmington area is off the north end of Masonboro Island, just south of the jetty.

Bald Head Island is by far the top beach in the Wilmington area; the east beach was one of the top 20 beaches overall in last years "America's Best Beaches" survey. This little developed island is only accessible by boat, and cars are not allowed. Your only means of transportation are renting a golf cart, bicycling or exploring by foot. Due to its remoteness, development at Bald Head Island did not come easy (several developers went bankrupt trying). Most of the development has occurred since the early 1980s when it was purchased by the Mitchell brothers. The island is being tastefully developed with major tracts of land left untouched for nature (especially a large maritime forest) and appealing to people interested in a quiet, upscale getaway. This is a pretty ritzy golf and tennis resort, but the beaches are what put it on the top 20 list.

The beaches are wide, especially at low tide, and the sand has a golden sheen, especially evident during sunset or sunrise. East Beach, which faces the Atlantic Ocean, is the best beach for swimming because the water is so clear and beautiful. Cape Fear point, which divides the east- and south-facing beaches, is a favorite area for fishing, just like at Cape Hatteras but on a much smaller scale. The waves generally become smaller, but the water a little more clouded as you round the point to South Beach.

There are beachfront houses on South Beach, which is the major resort beach on Bald Head Island, but the natural setting is generally intact aesthetically. Beach erosion is evident by the wave-cut sand dunes and the use of long sand bags (longard tubes) in an attempt to retard the alongshore (westward) movement and loss of sand. West Beach along the Cape Fear River is a great area to catch crabs or dig for clams, but swimming is not advised because of the unpredictable and sometimes dangerous river currents (also the water is really murky here). My kids love to catch crabs, not with a trap but in a sporting fashion by using a chicken neck on a string as a lure and then scooping them up in a net. This is great fun, and steamed blue crabs are good eating.

The seafood mecca on the North and South Carolina border is Calabash where tons of fried shrimp, fish, oysters, scallops and hush puppies are served daily. People drive for miles around to get their fill at one of the many "all you can eat" seafood restaurants. The size of the portions are huge, and the price is small by comparison. Locals bill their town as the fried seafood capital of the world, and people elsewhere talk about Calabash-style seafood. I must say that it was very tasty, but I'll special order it broiled next time.

North Carolina Travel and Tourism Division
301 N. Wilmington Street
Raleigh, NC 27626
(800) VISIT-NC

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