Maui is often rated by travelers as the best resort island in the world, and the white sand beaches from Kapalua to Wailea along Maui's sunny west coast are among the very best in the United States. Kapalua Bay Beach was the first National Winner in my annual survey of America's Best Beaches.

Kapalua is a perfect beach for swimming and snorkeling in the calm, clear waters that are protected by two headlands, formed long ago by lava flows into the sea. The name Kapalua means "arms embracing the sea," and this beautiful crescent-shaped, white sand beach is bounded by these rocky anchors. Sheltered from big waves and strong currents, this beach is one of the safest swimming beaches in Hawaii, and the water is inviting and great for snorkeling and diving. The fine coral sand slopes gradually into the deeper water, where at over-the-head depths the bottom becomes more rocky, punctuated with coral heads which attract the small, vividly-colored tropical fish. Resident schools of yellow butterfly fish, blue needle-nose fish, and green and pink wrasses await your visit. You can buy fish food and rent snorkeling gear at the concession hut on the north end of the beach.

Kapalua is one of the top resort destinations in the world. This tastefully planned development was built on a huge pineapple plantation, and the buildings in this complex are set back from the water so as not to crowd this spectacular little beach. Accommodations range from the lavish Ritz-Carlton to the elegant Kapalua villas. A full range of amenities is available at Kapalua, or you may choose to just come for the day.

Kaanapali is the best known beach in Maui, with a string of hotels along its four-mile long strand of white coral sand. As in all Maui resort developments, the six hotels at Kaanapali are set back nicely from the water, providing ample space for a beach promenade. Coconut palms fringe the beach that curves around the shore; it is divided into two sections by a point of lava rocks that creates variations in wave conditions along the long beach. The beach is moderately steep, but nearshore sand bars appear intermittently, providing the best play areas for children. Periods of high surf, particularly during the winter, can cause dangerous wave conditions. A flag system is used to advise visitors of surf conditions; a red flag means dangerous waves and currents. To the north is Keka Point, a distinctively high bluff of black lava where the Sheraton Maui was built. Here you can often find the best swimming in the lee of the lava flows.

The village of Lahaina is well worth a stop for those interested in boating and history. In the mid-1800s this small port was the whaling center of Hawaii, and the sailors on liberty gave this area a rowdy reputation. Today the streets are lined with shops, but the historic inns/saloons such as the Pioneer Inn are still present. I enjoy sitting under the huge banyan tree that occupies a village block. Kids are always amazed by the sheer size of whales, and the Whale Center of the Pacific Museum displays the massive skeleton of a sperm whale.

McGregor Point overlook is an excellent place to spot whales, ranging from 50-ton mammoths to young calves. During the winter, humpback whales school around the Hawaiian Islands, preferring the rather shallow and more protected waters between the islands of Maui and Lanai. Over 600 humpbacks have been counted in these waters where mating and calving occur. This rugged terrain does not permit any good beaches, but the whale watching is superb.

Wailea is one of Hawaii's newest luxury beach resort destinations; it is literally an oasis of greenery in a semi-arid climate. A series of five pocket beaches bounded by black lava points provide for great swimming conditions in the calm water. Enjoy all the white sandy beaches, which are connected by a coastal walk and landscaped minipark that stretches for two miles. Strolling along this palm-lined shore, you may see humpback whales breaching or enjoy a beautiful sunset. Ulua Beach, the middle beach at Wailea, has the clearest and best waters for snorkeling, and it is the favorite of Hollywood movie stars. While these beaches are open to the public, the rich and famous frequent Wailea's elegant beachfront hotels.

There are two state parks in the Makena area for those who gravitate to undeveloped, totally natural beaches. Big Beach, or properly called Oneloa Beach, is a mile of brown detrital sand which is as much as a hundred yards wide during the calm summer months. The beach is accessed by a dusty trail that leads through a forest of shade trees, including the thorny kiawe trees. It's best to wear sandals as these tough spines can pierce a rubber tire. Just offshore is Molokini crater, providing excellent snorkeling in the ocean-breached north side.

The Makena area is little developed and has a laid-back Hawaiian style. When I last visited Big Beach, a gathering of belly dancers in string beaded skirts was unwinding in the shade of trees. A number of people were making a beeline for the small mountain at the north end of the beach. The loose debris requires careful climbing over the black cinder cone to reach the best known nudist beach in Hawaii. Little Beach (or Puu Olai Beach) provides excellent swimming in the shallow nearshore waters with a sandy bottom. Due to the secluded nature of this small cove and difficulty of access, skinny-dippers usually encounter no problems with the law, but public nudity is officially banned throughout Hawaii.

Hana on the east side of Maui is a world apart from Makena, contrasting in just about every aspect; here ample rains create a profusion of blooming flowers and lush green vegetation. Hana is often called the "real Hawaii," where nature still rules supreme in this tropical paradise, and people can get away from it all. The road to Hana is an experience in and of itself; it should only be driven on sunny days. The twisting, narrow mountain road with thousand-foot drop-offs provides dramatic scenery, but this route can be hazardous at night, especially when it is foggy or rainy.

The Hana beaches come in a bewildering array of colors from white to red to black. Hamoa is the most famous beach. James Mitchener described it as the most perfect beach in the world. This pocket beach is rimmed by cliffs, covered with coconut palm trees and beautiful flowering vegetation, such as flame-red bromeliads. This stunning setting is what makes this crescent beach so appealing. The sand is gray - a mixture of coral and lava (not my personal favorite). While Hamoa is a public beach, the exclusive Hotel Hana Maui maintains the beach facilities, including beach luaus and Polynesian hula dancing.

Small black sand and cobble beaches abound along the Hana coast, but most are best for sunbathing rather than swimming because of dangerous shorebreaks and rip currents. The most unusual and interesting beach in Maui is the Red Sand Beach, known by the Hawaiians as Kaihalulu Beach. This rare red-colored sand is a product of the cinder cone that forms the beach. The sea has eroded away the eastern side of the cinder cone, exposing the red volcanic sand to oceanic wave action and providing a perfect pocket for sand accumulation. You must earn your view of this stunning beach; the beach trail proceeds along a steeply sloping, landslide area of loose cinder ash. Children and elderly people should not attempt this journey, and others should wear good walking or hiking shoes; sandals will not provide the support and sure footing required for this trail. The beach is protected by a natural lava barrier just offshore so that swimming in the quiet bay of turquoise water is a total delight. At the north end, however, heavy surf can cause swirling wave action and dangerous rip currents. Few people make this trek; expect some nudity.

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