Kauai is known as the garden island because of its lushly vegetated valleys and mountains. Being the oldest major island in the Hawaiian chain, the coral reefs are the best developed, and the beaches are some of the widest, longest and most beautiful. The Hanalei Bay area on the north coast boasts the most famous beaches in Kauai - it was here that the classic movie "South Pacific" was filmed. Lumahai Beach, one of the most scenic and photographed in Hawaii, has served as the backdrop for many movies, advertisements, and paintings. It should be viewed, not experienced, as the waves and currents are extremely dangerous. Unlike most other beaches on Kauai, Lumahai has no offshore protective reef. The bottom drops off quickly into deep water. The winter surf is so heavy here that the beach width varies by over a hundred yards seasonally. The best view of this famous beach is from the scenic overlook.

Hanalei Bay Beach is a huge U-shaped crescent of white coral sand that has accumulated in the mouth of this valley between mountains that provide dramatic relief and green vegetative scenery. Hanalei is featured on travel posters and praised in old Hawaiian songs. This bay is so large that it's long, continuous strand of sand is divided by names into several beaches. Swimming is excellent in the crystal clear waters year-round, but it is especially good in the summer when the seas are calm. The white coral sand has a reddish hue, and the beach ever so gently drops off into deeper waters. Many people like to jump into the water from the long Hanalei Pier, which also serves as the entry point for scuba divers exploring the spectacular reefs offshore. The rustic little town of Hanalei has escaped any major planned development. Here you can find some beach vacation bargains in terms of accommodations in an area known for its natural beauty. For the upscale traveler, nearby Princeville provides the luxury and all-inclusive amenities of a destination resort.

Kee Beach in Haena State Park is the literal end of the road and gateway to the Na Pali Coast, Hawaii's premier wilderness experience. There is ample parking under the shade trees adjacent to this little lagoonal beach, protected by a natural coral reef breakwater. Sheer mountain cliffs with intermittent waterfalls provide a dramatic backdrop for Kee Beach. The quiet, blue-green water serves as the most popular snorkeling site in Kauai, and there are many species of colorful reef fish, including damselfish, butterflyfish, surgeonfish and wrasses. Waves breaking over the reef superelevate the trapped water at Kee Beach, which escapes through a channel on the western end of the reef flat. Unsuspecting swimmers and snorkelers paddling around the school of tropical fish can suddenly find themselves caught in a powerful rip current; it has caused a number of drownings. The lack of high surf at the water's edge does not assure safety. Lifeguards should always be consulted when entering the water for the first time.

A fun walk along the shoreline leads to Tunnels Beach, a big-time surfing beach for experts only. It is not that attractive for swimmers because of the flat-lying beachrock that lines the water's edge. A favorite activity is beachcombing: waves washing around Haena Point deposit a great deal of flotsam onshore, including prized green glass balls from old Japanese fishing nets and varied seashells. It is here that the tiny, pearly-white puka shells were first collected and strung to make necklaces. Actress Elizabeth Taylor is credited with starting the puka shell fad.

Kalalau in Na Pali Coast State Park is the most famous wilderness shoreline in the Hawaiian Islands. This ancient path winds over mountains and valleys for eleven miles before reaching Kalalau Beach. The white sand beach is remote and often empty; there are no lifeguards or rangers. The summer is the best time to attempt this arduous hike as winter rains cause slippery and muddy conditions. Kalalau Beach often experiences high surf, making the water too dangerous for swimming. Rogue waves have swept unsuspecting victims off of cliff tops where there is no beach to break up the force of the powerful Pacific Ocean waves. Notice the area along the cliffs that has been scoured free of vegetation by past waves; you should avoid walking or standing in these areas during big wave days. You never know when a "sleeper" or rogue wave is coming.

Barking Sands Beach is part of the Polihale State Park, which is one of the longest and widest sand beaches in Hawaii. This 15 miles of continuous sand averages over 300-feet wide in the summer and is backed by massive sand dunes that tower up to 100-feet high. Polihale represents the largest single accumulation of sand in Hawaii. This wild beach is a great place to experience nature, but the surf is too dangerous for swimming. Even beachcombers have been swept off their feet by the strong backwash from large breaking waves, only to find themselves pulled offshore into perilously deep ocean water.

The trip to Barking Sands Beach can itself be exhilarating, but hopefully not dangerous; the paved road ends miles before the beach. I drove a rental car through the dirt cane roads, which had unavoidable pond-size mud holes. It took several washes to remove the reddish-brown mud that coated the car from bumper to bumper. Also, you must deal with the right of passage through the Pacific Range Missile Facility, a top-secret military installation. Why all the bother? The payoff is the sheer experience of being in the tropical equivalent of a seaside Sahara Desert, where the sand squeaks or "barks like a dog" when rubbed with bare feet. Barking Sands Beach is one of the world famous "singing sand" beaches; the dry sand grains can be induced to vibrate at their resonance frequency and hence emit an eerie sound.

Many swimmers worry about sharks, but this fear is largely unfounded. Humans are not a favorite prey of sharks; they much prefer the fatty bodies of seals or the tasty flippers of a sea turtle. The problem occurs when sharks cannot determine the type of animal in the water or when they are induced into a feeding frenzy by a bloody carcass. The best swimming water is the cleanest and the clearest; poor in-water visibility can lead to shark attacks. One of the most shark-infested beaches in Hawaii is Pakala, where a nearby river discharges the reddish-brown water from the upland agricultural fields into the ocean. Surfers describe the breaking waves as "chocolate walls," and shark sightings are common. Needless to say, I would not recommend this beach for swimming, surfing, or any in-water activity.

One of the greatest beaches in Hawaii is Poipu Beach, which has, unfortunately, been pummeled by hurricanes time and time again. Hurricane Iwa made landfall here in 1982, causing considerable destruction from crashing waves as well as damage from overflowing streams. A decade later, Hurricane Iniki, the biggest hurricane in historical times, came ashore with wind speeds of 130 miles per hour and a very high storm surge. Home videos show entire roofs lifting off of houses, and amateur photographers captured the storm waves crashing into the lobbies of the beachfront hotels at Poipu Beach. There was tremendous damage to hotels, particularly the Sheraton Kauai, condominiums, and other shore properties. The beautiful golden coral sand was nearly all washed away. There has been substantial natural recovery over the years and some sand importation to rebuild this treasured beach.

Poipu Beach Park is one of the most popular swimming areas in Kauai and is used by residents and tourists alike. The coral sands jut out into the water near the western end of the park; they form an interesting geological feature called a tombolo, which is anchored by offshore rocks. People love to walk out on this finger of sand, and the curved bays on either side provide shallow and wave-protected water that is safe for small children. All three of the tombolo beaches in Hawaii are located in Kauai, and Poipu is the grandest of them all. The coral sand here has a golden hue, making it an especially interesting and beautiful color at sunset.

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