The island of Hawaii is by far the biggest island in the chain, and it is a land of great diversity and geologic activity. It is possible to snow ski the summit of Mauna Kea and swim in the warm tropical waters of Hawaii all on the same day. The Big Island is the youngest island and is still building as witnessed by spectacular volcanic eruptions, tremendous lava flows, and violent, ground-shaking earthquakes. Beaches come and go; the most famous Black Sand Beach in Hawaii was completely destroyed a few years ago when it was covered by a thick lava flow. Elsewhere, the lava directly enters the sea water, resulting in explosive action and the formation of huge cones of cinder sand, which is actually volcanic glass. The waves and longshore currents move this new material into embayments so that new pocket beaches can be formed within months of an eruption.

The beaches of the Big Island are varied; the most popular beaches are composed of white coral sand, but there are a number of black sand beaches and even a rare green sand beach. Many of the beaches are inaccessible, and rainy weather in the Hilo area discourages most sun seekers and swimmers. Hilo was struck on April 1, 1946 by one of the most powerful tsunamis in Hawaiian history. The survivors of this great natural disaster have incredible stories to tell, making the area worth a visit on this basis alone. The sunny side of Hawaii is the western shore where all the great beach resorts are located. The ocean waters off of the Kona-Kailua coast were used to shoot Kevin Costner's epic movie "Waterworld." Over $180 million was spent to produce this box office flop, which gave the Japanese and other investors a tremendous tax write-off. I was there during the extended period of shooting, and all available boats were commissioned by the film crew so I couldn't try my luck fishing for marlin or other big game fish.

Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area is one of the best beaches in America and is the 1993 National Winner. Driving along the coastal highway from the airport, you wouldn't think there are any beaches at the water's edge of this bleak landscape dominated by black lava flows, much less any world-class beach resorts. The beautiful coral sand beach at Hapuna seems incredibly white, partly because of the sharp contrast with the black lava that flanks and bounds this half mile pocket beach. During the summer months the beach swells to over 200 feet wide, and the fine coral sand makes for a flat beach that gradually slopes into the offshore waters. Hapuna Beach is a perfect place to swim, snorkel or scuba dive in the crystal clear waters or enjoy land-based activities on the flat, hard-packed beach. During big wave days in the winter, the pounding shorebreak and powerful rip currents make swimming impossible. People ride the rapidly moving, whitewater swash of the broken waves up the beach face on boogie boards; the key is to stay in very shallow water so that you are not swept back into the ocean.

   
The weather on this western side of the Big Island can be characterized as hot, dry and sunny throughout most of the year, making it an ideal place to play in the winter, but some may find the heat a bit overwhelming in the summer. The amenities at Hapuna Beach range from good facilities at the state park to the luxurious Hapuna Prince Hotel, discretely tucked into the north end of the beach. Palm trees, flowering plants, and well-kept lawns step up the hillside from the shore, providing a scenic overview of this picture-perfect beach and beautiful azure ocean. The palm trees and park shelters also provide needed shade and a place to eat your lunch.

Another oasis by the sea is nearby Kaunaoa Beach. This long crescent-shaped, white sand beach, bounded by lava flows jutting into the sea, has accreted over time from the accumulation of material from the offshore coral reef. Kaunaoa Bay is the nesting site for the rare Hawaiian green sea turtles, and it is a great place to spot many other sea creatures in the sparkling clear waters. In addition to snorkeling, swimming is also excellent. The southern end of the beach is the most protected, offering the best place for children to play on this wide, flat beach. Many people know Kaunaoa as the site of the elegant Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, which offers public access to its great beach. Just like Hapuna, big surf means dangerous conditions.

One of the best places to stay on the Big Island is the town of Kailua, which many people refer to as Kona. The word kona means leeward in the native Hawaiian; it is also commonly used to refer to weather conditions originating from the leeward or southern direction, such as a kona wind or storm. This pleasant and most appealing area was the home of the greatest Hawaiian king of them all, King Kamehameha I, who united all the islands into one kingdom.

The weather and soil conditions along the Kailua-Kona coast are ideal for growing coffee. The Big Island supplies the only coffee grown in the United States, and it is some of the best coffee I have ever tasted. Experiencing freshly ground and brewed Kona coffee is a must during any visit to Hawaii.

White Sands Beach Park along the Kailua-Kona coast is an inviting beach for water recreation. This small pocket beach is backed by a coconut grove which provides welcome shade and a full range of park facilities. An offshore sand bar and gently-sloping beach face provide excellent conditions for swimming and body surfing. White Sands Beach is locally called Magic Sands because all the beautiful white sand can disappear during periods of high surf, leaving lava bedrock exposed. What is really interesting is the rapidity at which the entire beach can vanish - literally overnight during winter storm conditions.

Green Sand Beach is one of the most interesting beaches in the world and the southernmost beach in the United States. The sand is volcanic glass that is tinted green by the presence of olivine grains. Individual nuggets of olivine can be picked up by the handfuls on the beach or eroding sea cliffs. While the grains are usually too small to be valued as a gemstone, the rare green sand is prized by collectors. I am a member of two sand collectors societies which have worldwide membership, and a sample from Green Sand Beach is a biggie in any collection.

Green Sand Beach is located in a desolate part of the coast near the Kaulana boat ramp; there are no facilities, food or water available. You must drive through wind-swept grassy plains to the end of the road; then take an invigorating, two-and-a-half-mile walk along the sea cliffs until you reach the ocean-breached volcanic cone that provides the source material and pocket for the accumulation of the volcanic sand beach. To reach the beach itself, carefully climb down the low sea cliff on the south face where the footing is sure. Some people attempt to climb down the crumbling cliffs backing the beach itself, but this route is not safe. On calm days, a quick dip into the sea is very refreshing. The water is clean and clear, but the dark sand on the underwater beach makes it more foreboding and less appealing to most people for swimming. On the return journey to your car, notice the piles of stone and other fortifications that were constructed by early Hawaiians on the cliff top. These waters contain some of Hawaii's best yellowfin tuna, which is the finest fish in the sea for sashimi. From these towering cliffs, schools of these large fish, growing to over 300 pounds, can sometimes be spotted.

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