BEACH TERMINOLOGY

TIDAL RANGE Difference in height between high and low tide.

UNDERTOW General layman’s term used to describe coastal currents which may “suck” swimmers underwater. A more accurate description is backwash from large breaking waves or seaward-flowing rip currents.

SEMI-HARD STABILIZATION Use of sand bags and/or geotextile tubes that can be stacked or arranged to provide protection to beachfront properties.

UPDRIFT Direction opposite that of the predominant movement of the littoral drift. Opposite of downdrift.

UPLAND Mainland or land behind the dunes; high ground that is above normal tidal flooding.

UPRUSH The movement of water (swash) up the beach face when a wave breaks on the foreshore.

WASHOVER OR WASHOVER FAN Sand deposited during storms landward of the dune line, sometimes extending to the marshes or into the bay waters.

WAVE HEIGHT Vertical difference between a wave’s crest and trough; higher waves are more energetic and can cause rapid beach changes.

WAVELENGTH Distance between successive wave crests.

WAVE PERIOD Time in seconds between successive wave crests. Swell are long period, while sea are short period waves.

WAVE REFRACTION See REFRACTION .

Page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

 

© 2007 DrBeach.Org. All rights reserved.