|
SCARPING
Erosion of a dune or berm,
usually by oblique wave attack during a storm.
SEA
Short period, steep waves generated
during a storm that cause beach erosion.
SEAWALLS
Vertical or near vertical shore-parallel
structures designed to prevent upland erosion and storm surge
flooding. Seawalls are generally massive concrete structures
emplaced along
a considerable stretch of shoreline at urban beaches.
SHADOW
EFFECT Stretch of sand-starved,
eroded beach that is downdrift of a structure such as a jetty
or groin and hence in the littoral drift shadow
of that structure.
SHOAL
A large deposit of sand, generally
created by currents near inlets, that can be an obstruction
to boats and can cause wave refraction.
SHORELINE
Boundary between the land and
the sea, which is often defined as the mean high water line
for mapping purposes.
SOFT
STABILIZATION Artificial emplacement
of sand via beach nourishment or through building and enhancement
of sand dunes with sand fencing or vegetative plantings. Sand
scraping of the beach to build up sand dunes is another means
of soft stabilization.
SORT
Separation of particles into
various size categories by moving water or wind.
SPOIL
Dredged sediment, usually from
inlets or lagoons, that can be clean or polluted.
SPRING
TIDE Larger than average tidal
range that occurs twice monthly during new and full moon times.
STORM
SURGE Sudden, temporary rise
of sea level primarily due to winds but also caused by atmospheric
pressure reduction, resulting in piled-up water against the
coast, which is the primary cause of coastal flooding during
a storm.
SWASH
Sheet of water that flows up
and down the beach foreshore caused by waves breaking and
gravity, respectively. See UPRUSH
and BACKWASH
.
SWELL
Long period waves that tend
to widen the dry beach, usually in summer months or during
fairweather.
TIDAL
INLET Channel through a barrier
beach, which is characterized by swift currents that interrupt
the littoral drift of sand.
TIDAL
PRISM Amount of water that
flows in and out of a semi-enclosed bay or estuary between
high and low tide.
|